BELLOWS FALLS — I've made apple cakes for years, and they are always a hit. When I see the beautiful apples appear at the farm stands, I see a special dessert sometime in the near future, probably after Sunday dinner.
This recipe is a variation on a traditional French apple cake, but with a few twists. Instead of using dark rum, which can overpower the delicate flavor of the apples, we instead intensify the flavor of the apples with a little Calvados, or apple brandy.
Most of the French versions use no spices, but just a touch of cinnamon and cardamom can add to the flavor without detracting from the star of the dish. Use restraint, or do without if you like.
Apple cider makers blend sweet, sharp, and bitter apples to create a flavor that is well rounded and more interesting than that made with just one variety - also a good strategy to employ when making an apple pie, applesauce, or apple cake or bread.
I also highly recommend browning the butter for the batter for an additional layer of subtle flavor.
Pick a firm apple, a sweet one, a tart one, and a favorite one! It doesn't matter which kinds, just pick four different varieties that you like with a range of sweetness. At this time of year, you can take advantage of many of the farm stands' samples to try.
This cake is more apple-forward than cake-forward! It is good served hot or cold, by itself, or with a little whipped cream or ice cream on the side. It is a Sunday-dinner treat after all.
French Apple Cake
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Grease and flour a springform or false-bottom pan. In a pinch, a standard 8-inch cake pan will do, but butter it well. A parchment or waxed-paper disc will give you extra no-stick insurance. Grease and flour that, too.
Peel and core:
¶4 large apples, different varieties
Cut them into 1-inch chunks and set aside.
Make the brown butter. In a small saucepan, melt:
¶1 stick of unsalted butter
Keep swirling the pan until the butter solids start to brown. You will notice a nutty aroma. Don't let it go too far and burn; you want browned butter, not burnt butter. Set aside.
Whisk together:
¶{3/4} cup all-purpose flour
¶{3/4} teaspoon baking powder
¶{1/4} tsp. salt
¶{1/4} tsp. cinnamon
¶{1/8} tsp. cardamom
Set this mixture aside. In a large bowl, whisk until foamy:
¶2 large eggs and 1 large egg yolk.
Add, and continue whisking:
¶{1/2} cup white sugar
¶{1/4} cup brown sugar
¶3 Tbsp. Calvados or apple brandy
¶1 tsp. vanilla extract
.
In the egg bowl, sprinkle in half of the flour mixture, then half the browned butter, mix, and repeat.
Add the apples and combine until everything is coated.
Turn out into the prepared pan. Place the pan on a baking sheet and place in the oven on the middle rack.
Set your timer for 50 minutes and check. The cake should be golden brown, and a toothpick inserted in the middle will come out clean. If not, give it another 5 minutes or so.
Let the cake sit for 10 minutes, then use a paring knife to gently release the sides of the pan. Remove to a wire rack to finish cooling.
If you want to glaze the cake, gently warm:
¶2 Tbsp. apricot jam
¶1 tsp. additional Calvados
Spread this mixture thinly on top of the cake after it has cooled.
Serve the cake as is, or top it with a little whipped cream.